Mount Shivling Peak Climbing Information

Mount Shivling is a twin peak standing mound perched at 6,543 meters above mean sea level. This peak is compared with the Matterhorn Peak of the Alps. However, its remoteness and the severe weather of the central Himalayas make Mount Shivling a formidable challenge to negotiate, even for seasoned peak climbers. It was 1974 when Mt Shivling was first climbed by an Indian para-military force of ITBP when they climbed via the west ridge. Since then, Shivling has been summited on several occasions - almost every year. With us, you can climb Shivling Peak with the best chance of success. It is a magnificent marvel of nature and holds sentimental values to Hindus - as the name itself is THE LOGO of Lord Shiva.

Ample preparations are needed to climb Mount Shivling peak. You need high quality gears, an experienced trekking team, and permissions from the Indian Mountaineering Fwederation (IMF) before climbing Mt Shivling. The two base camps are at 6200 meters (BC I) and 6700 meters (BC II). Note that Himalayan weather is always unpredictable and dedicated mountaineers would know that. Possibility of Ski down from the peak would also depend on certain conditions like snow-cover (to avoid avalanche), snow storms and right hours to attempt. All in all, Shivling peak climb demands courage and ability to survive against the odds.

Mount Shivling's Climbing History

Shivling is one of the highest peak in Gangotri group of mountain range, but one of the more easily accessible as compared to its adjoining summits.

After British exploration of the Gangotri Glacier in 1933, a German expedition led by R. Schwarzgruber climbed nearby peaks and did a reconnaissance of Shivling in 1938. They reported "no feasible route" on the mountain due to its steepness and the threat of falling seracs.

Shivling was first climbed on 3 June 1974 via the west ridge, by a team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, led by Hukam Singh. The ridge is the lowest-angle feature on the mountain, but still involves serious mixed climbing, and is threatened by the serac barrier noted by the Germans. The ridge leads to the col between the two summits; a steep snow/ice ridge then leads to the main summit.

Since the first ascent, at least ten other routes have been climbed on the peak, ascending all major ridges and most major faces of the mountain. All routes are extremely serious undertakings.

In 2005, Basanta Singha Roy and Debashis Biswas, both climbers from Mountaineers Association Of Krishnanagar (MAK), West Bengal, India, were the first successful summiters of India, as a part of a civilian effort i.e. climbed by the help of a Sherpa guide with an expedition style.

In 2016, Grzegorz Kukurowski and Lukasz Chrzanowski from Poland attempted the peak via the North Face. They got stuck at 6,300 meters, about 200 meters below the summit. Both died in dramatic fashion. The north face of the peak still remains unclimbed

On 25 May 2012, Valery Rozov made the first BASE jump from the summit of Shivling at an altitude of 6,420 metres (21,060 ft) wearing a wingsuit.

Dreamcatcher Adventure has a team of dedicated mountaineers who have scaled Mt Shivling on more than one occasion.